September 2022

The renowned New Orleans–based antiques dealer M.S. Rau somewhat regularly places advertisements in The Wall Street Journal. And, to its sheer delight, one ad recently caught the attention of someone in possession of a one-of-a-kind jewel by the famous artist Alexander Calder (1898–1976).

Best known for his sculptural mobiles, Calder was also a maker of jewelry, favoring spirals, concentric circles, and amorphous discs in hammered metal. With this in mind, the jewel in question—a custom ruby engagement ring from the 1960s (pictured at top)—encapsulates Calder’s aesthetic but also stands out in the best possible way as a bit of an outlier.

“The great body of Calder’s jewelry output was entirely metal work, with only a scant few pieces having set stones of any kind,” says Coles Loomis, sales associate at M.S. Rau, “and most pieces with a gold appearance were crafted of gold wire as opposed to hammered gold, such as the hammered gold spiral ring the artist designed for his own wife. Since this ring we have acquired was designed as an engagement ring, the artist obviously pulled out all the stops. This meant sourcing the finest material—18k gold—as opposed to inexpensive and malleable materials like copper scraps and silver wire as he did for many of his other jewelry pieces.”

The story behind the ring is that Calder offered to design it for Albert Fenner Milton, to commemorate the occasion of his engagement to Catherine Higgs in 1964. Milton was the son of Albert Fink Milton, who was Calder’s close friend and neighbor in Litchfield County, Conn. M.S. Rau acquired the ring through a member of the Higgs family.

The Milton-Higgs engagement ring designed by Alexander Calder uses 12 Burmese cabochon rubies from a Milton family heirloom.  

“The piece is special in many regards. First, Calder repurposed roughly 15 carats total weight of cabochon Burmese rubies from a Milton family heirloom to incorporate into the one-of-a-kind piece,” says Loomis. “Secondly, the great majority of his jewelry designs were bracelets, necklaces, and brooches. Rings accounted for only a small percentage. The gold still bears a small mark where his pliers tweaked the spiral into the right configuration!”

Further contributing to the ring’s stature and appeal is the fact that appreciation for Calder’s work in the art market is booming.

“Not only did the Whitney recently exhibit some of his collection, but the Museum of Modern Art recently opened a gallery entitled ‘Alexander Calder: Modern From the Start,’ ” explains Loomis. “Although he is thoroughly celebrated for his incredible mobiles, his jewelry is incredibly exciting and rare to come by. Only very special friends and household names such as Peggy Guggenheim and Joan Miró were gifted such extraordinary treasures.”

I’d like to be next in line, please. How about you?

Top: Alexander Calder circa 1964 spiral ring in 18k hammered gold with 15 cts. t.w. cabochon rubies, $138,500; available at M.S. Rau

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Christie’s New York Magnificent Jewels auction wrapped up on April 13, pulling in a total of $35 million. The auction house reported there was global participation, with registered bidders hailing from 40 countries across five continents.

The auction was led by the “Perfect Palette,” a trio of pink, blue, and orange diamond rings that were sold in separate lots but altogether achieved a total of $8.4 million. The stones surpassed estimates, with the pink diamond selling for $3.5 million, the blue ringing in $2,7 million, and the orange going for $2.2 million.

A number of white diamonds also pulled in impressive prices, including a 38.04 ct. pear diamond that sold for $3 million.

Colored gemstones also performed well, according to Christie’s, including a Burmese ruby ring by F.J. Cooper, a prominent Philadelphia jeweler, that sold for $1.7 million, and a Colombian emerald ring by Cartier that went for $225,000.

Bulgari diamond and onyx Serpenti wristwatch (sold for $50,000)

One of the stars of the show was a Bulgari diamond and onyx Serpenti wristwatch, which was sold for $50,000. The piece was donated by Bulgari, with proceeds going to the Elizabeth Taylor AIDS Foundation on the actress’ behalf. The foundation, which Taylor started in 1991, educates on HIV prevention as well as treatment, and advocates for the modernization of criminal laws and penalties affecting people living with HIV.

Christie’s Jewels Online sale continues through April 20 and features a number of fine jewelry and iconic designs by Bulgari, Cartier, David Webb, Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co., JAR, and Van Cleef & Arpels.

The stylish pieces below are still up for grabs.

David Webb diamond and lapis lazuli brooch, est. $5,000–$7,000

Bulgari diamond brooch, est. $5,000–$7,000

Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. black jade bracelet, est. $3,000–$5,000

Top: The Perfect Palette fancy colored diamonds (all photos courtesy of Christie’s)

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Sotheby’s is unveiling both a retail destination and an online marketplace today, to offer customers access to 5,000 luxury items, including jewelry, fine art, watches, designer handbags, furniture, and more.

The Emporium, the new retail store, is located within Sotheby’s flagship office at 1334 York Ave., in New York City, and is an extension of the Buy Now online marketplace.

“Over the past year we’ve seen enormous growth and transformation within the luxury landscape, as evidenced by the success of online auctions and the response to our Buy Now e-commerce platform,” said Josh Pullan, head of Sotheby’s global luxury division, in a statement. “Our newest retail venture in New York, the Emporium, presents a rich assortment of luxury lifestyle goods and fine art that clients can enjoy in person every day and buy instantly.”

Both the retail space and online marketplace will be curated by a revolving roster of tastemakers and influencers, starting with renowned makeup artist Gucci Westman, whose clients have included Jennifer Aniston and Gwyneth Paltrow. Shoppers can browse Westman’s edit until June 10. Her brand, Westman Atelier, is dedicated to promoting clean and sustainable makeup products; as such, Sotheby’s will make a donation to the Right Livelihood Foundation, an organization dedicated to solving global and ecological problems, to thank her for her involvement.

Gucci Westman walking through Sotheby’s Emporium retail space

“I am beyond thrilled to collaborate with Sotheby’s on an edit of luxury goods for the debut of the Emporium,” said Westman in the same statement. “The credibility, the curation, and the craftsmanship that come with the Sotheby’s stamp—knowing something has been vetted by such an exceptional eye—is special. From a pair of art nouveau gooseneck desk lamps by Loetz to a late 20th century Signe Persson-Melin glazed bowl and contemporary gold, platinum, and diamond David Webb necklace, my selections embody my passion for timeless investment pieces with a story to tell. Not to mention the element of discovery—what better way to encounter a new artist or delve into the world of interiors than through Sotheby’s unique lens?”

Other jewelry pieces within the Westman edit include a Rolex Kermit Submariner stainless steel watch, circa 2003, for $30,000, and a Sotheby’s Diamonds yellow and white diamond cigar band ring, for $50,000.

Top: David Webb gold, platinum, and diamond necklace, $95,000, as part of the Gucci Westman edit (all photos courtesy of Sotheby’s)

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JCK recently reported on the reemergence of the jewels of antiquity serving as an inspiration point for independent designers. As editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky notes, “The combination of genuine antiquities—be they Roman coins, Phoenician beads, or antique amulets—with karat gold sends a powerful message about jewelry’s ability to protect, inspire, communicate and, above all, endure.”

For Victoria Strigini, a French, London-based jewelry designer, intaglios—precious or semiprecious gemstones that have been incised with portraits, anima motifs, mythological figures, or scenes—are the thing she’s into at this precise moment, having built her line around on the adornments and artifacts of the ancient world, from Greek and Roman coins to Medusa-head signet rings.

Marriage ring in 18k gold with a Roman jasper intaglio depicting opposed male and female busts from the 2nd–3rd century A.D., $ 16,687. The gemstone would originally have been set in a marriage ring. The featured couple possibly represents Emperor Marcus Aurelius and Empress Faustina.

“Classical gemstones have been around for more than 2,000 years—that alone is magical,” she says. “Imagining all of the hands that they have passed through and then owning one of these treasures essentially inserts you into its history, which again is truly wonderful. It’s like a never-ending story.”

To create the intaglios, gemstone engravers used simple mechanical hand tools with abrasive powders such as emery to carve into the stones. The quality of the carving, as well as the type and size of the gemstones, were key factors in determining their worth (and still are).

And as Strigini explains, intaglios were not simply decorative—in their day, they served a very practical function. For example, they were set into rings for use as seals to authenticate important documents. “The design was carved in a mirror image, to produce an impression the correct way when pressing the ring into wax or clay,” she says.

The designer sources the intaglios she uses from specialty gem dealers and through auction houses. “I like the hunt, it’s the most exciting part,” she says. “I’m kind of addicted. It’s like constantly discovering new artists, just in a different form.… Each stone also invites a different [design] treatment [in jewelry] too, so I enjoy the experimentation phase that comes with a new antiquity acquisition.”

Reverence for the stone’s original creation process and unique provenance is always top of mind when she’s working.

Oval slice pendant in 18k gold with a Roman carnelian intaglio depicting a female bust holding a rose by the stem, dating from the 1st century B.C.–1st century A.D., $7,301 (Photo courtesy of Victoria Strigini)

“I don’t alter intaglios or gemstones in any way; in my opinion, to do anything to them would be disrespectful to the artists who carved them so I treat them with integrity,” says Strigini. “Unfortunately—but luckily rarely—gemstones can always crack or chip when they are set, whether they’re classical carved intaglios or faceted gemstones. This is usually because there is a weakness in the crystal structure. This is always heartbreaking…it doesn’t happen often but you have to just accept that it’s a part of its history. And there are solutions such as filling the chip with melted gold, which can then be engraved to complete the carving.”

Meanwhile, her passion for intaglios has built the groundwork for other designs that embrace a modern antiquities theme, including a new online program that allows customers to choose a pre-sourced Greek and Roman coin from a catalogue and have it set in a silver signet ring. Sounds pretty money to me!

Top: L’Oeuf au Plat ring in 18k gold with a Roman carnelian intaglio depicting a winged cupid riding a dolphin, dating from the 2nd–3rd century A.D., $7,300

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