2022

An abundance of bijou books made their debut this yr, all excellent for vacation presents, from outsized tomes celebrating pure diamonds, to a novel by which jewellery is central to the plot. (However my go-to learn will all the time be this homicide thriller set within the diamond district by JCK’s Rob Bates—till the subsequent one comes out in February!)

I actually lined the Aldo Cipullo monograph (a should) and this ode to British jewellery design is a good vacation reward for the intense collector/connoisseur.

Just a few new releases have popped up simply in time for vacation 2021, and all appear to be important new additions to the jewellery lover’s library—together with your personal.

Forward, a fast overview of every debut, beginning with the one up high. Bulgari Magnifica: The Energy Ladies Maintain, a brand new title from Rizzoli, is a lavish quantity that intersperses the Italian home’s most entrancing excessive jewellery with texts written solely by girls, from historic letters and modern essays and even emails and pocket book entries straight from the thoughts of the home’s inventive director, Lucia Silvestri. Trend stylist and author Tina Leung served as curator and writer of the e-book, and contributors embrace Amanda Nguyen, Mia Moretti, and Noor Tagouri, amongst others.

Subsequent, if there are September infants in your listing, Joanna Hardy’s Sapphire (Thames & Hudson, $125) is a powerful reward that can certainly make their hearts throb. It presents a scholarly historical past of the gem, from the early buying and selling routes on the Silk Highway to newer creations (i.e., Belperron, Bulgari, and extra). Showcasing 60 of the world’s most famous jewels and artifacts, it’s a showstopper from the within out and marks the third and closing entry in Hardy’s sequence of books on coloured gem stones, following Emerald (2014) and Ruby (2017). (Add these final two to make your reward the final word literary ménage à trois!)

“Mighty Nature has certainly bestowed upon us a formidable gem: sapphire,” writes gemologist and jewellery historian Joanna Hardy within the introduction to Sapphire
(picture: courtesy of Thames & Hudson).

OK, so it’s important to pre-order this one, out in January, and reward it slightly bit late, but it surely’s price ready for: Buccellati: A Century of Timeless Magnificence (Assouline, $125) is a nearly-300-page, in-depth examination of the celebrated Italian jeweler’s goldsmithing methods throughout 4 generations. Every engraving methodology is outlined and explored within the textual content, accompanied by dazzling examples of Buccellati’s singular stylistic identification. As famed writer and jewellery historian Vivienne Becker writes within the introduction, “It’s a story by which the goldsmith is the protagonist, on the very middle of the Renaissance world of artwork and connoisseurship.… A narrative of Italian refinement and of the wedding of artistry and craftsmanship, reinvigorated by [founder] Mario Buccellati, stored alive by his descendants and encapsulated by each Buccellati creation.”

Cowl of Buccellati: A Century of Timeless Magnificence
(picture courtesy of Assouline)

And at last, we have now The Soul of Jewelry (Flammarion, $75), printed in collaboration with Maison Chaumet. One other huge e-book, it presents distinctive perception into the world of bijou that includes a broad vary of creative and mental views. Masking each side of the subject at hand, from anthro-pology to philosophy to artwork, contributors embrace: perfumer Frédéric Malle, botanist Marc Jeanson, mineralogist Erik Gonthier, auctioneer Benoit Repellin, composer and pianist Karol Beffa, novelist Carole Martinez, journalist Virginie Mouzat, thinker Emanuele Coccia, and photographer Julia Hetta, amongst others. In the meantime, Chaumet’s inimitable jewels themselves act as a type of storytelling car, punctuating the textual content with so many jeweled tiaras and jabots.

Cowl of The Soul of Jewelry
(picture: (c) Flammarion, 2020)

High: Cowl of Bulgari Magnifica: The Energy Ladies Maintain (Rizzoli, $95). Picture: (c) Bulgari and courtesy of Rizzoli.

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If the great seems to be or scandals of interval drama sequence Bridgerton aren’t your cup of tea (which, let’s face it, they in all probability are), there’s at the least one good motive to look at: the Regency-era jewels. “The Prince Regent, for whom the period is known as, was a terrific patron of positive arts and structure, so it’s not shocking that each one the ornamental arts flourished presently,” explains Nicole Corsini, the advertising and marketing director at Lang Antiques. “Each women and men of unique upper-class society used jewellery to show their wealth and telegraph their social standing.” 

It was a interval in the course of the early nineteenth century when the whole lot was nonetheless made by hand, and jewels have been typically minimize as cabochons or early aspect patterns (akin to rose and desk cuts), set in closed foil-backed settings that enhanced their colour and sparkle in candlelight. “Vogue and jewellery of that period have been strongly influenced by historical Roman– and Greek–impressed neoclassical design, thus Regency items are typically extra refined and stylish moderately than ornate and rococo,” says Corsini. 

Apart from being a present all about social standing, upper-class society, and hierarchy the place Edwardian period items would naturally match, there’s an fascinating motive why Edwardian jewels are utilized in Bridgerton. “There was a robust Regency revival within the early-Twentieth century, throughout what we all know because the Edwardian period, the place neoclassic designs have been as soon as once more in trend,” says Corsini. “This can be one motive why extra simply acquired Edwardian jewellery is used so continuously in Regency-period dramas.” 

Plus, a better have a look at the items curated for every character can reveal extra about them. For instance, Daphne, the Duchess of Hastings, wears extra delicate and refined items to emphasise her class, whereas the extra keen Featherington household wears brighter and bolder items to attract consideration to themselves.

Beneath, we’ve included a few of the greatest examples of vintage items from Lang Antiques’ assortment.

Early Victorian dangle earrings in 18k yellow gold with 38 cts. t.w. pear-cut pink topaz, 2 cts. t.w. oval-cut purplish-pink topaz, and a pair of cts. t.w. round-cut purplish-pink topaz, $5,950; Lang Antiques

Edwardian lavaliere necklace with 3.25 ct. cushion-cut aquamarine, 0.15 cts. t.w. round-cut diamonds, and freshwater pearls, $5,650; Lang Antiques

Edwardian feather brooch (additionally proven at high) with 8.6 cts. t.w. previous mine–minimize diamonds, $19,750; Lang Antiques

Early Victorian garland necklace in 15k yellow gold with pearls, $11,750; Lang Antiques

Georgian pin in 15k yellow gold with 4.5 cts. t.w. pink topaz and a pair of cts. t.w. oval-cut chrysoberyl, $3,950; Lang Antiques 

Vintage tiara in platinum and 14k gold with a 0.2 ct. European-cut diamond, 0.45 ct. t.w. European-cut diamonds, 0.3 ct. t.w. rose-cut diamonds, and pure pearls, $8,750; Lang Antiques

(Photographs courtesy of Lang Antiques)

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All people loves a bit dolce vita. And Christie’s Milan is giving everybody an opportunity to really feel like they’re residing it by way of its on-line jewellery and watch sale La Dolce Vita. Starting Tuesday and working by way of March 10, the sale is chock-full of gems. The objects embody a 25 carat diamond ring, a sapphire and ruby choker, a classic Patek Philippe watch, and a discontinued Rolex, so there’s one thing for everybody. See a number of highlights under, and take a look at the sale for a lot of extra items that channel {that a} luxurious way of life.

Classic 1960 ring with a 25.14 ct. old-cut diamond, estimate EUR100,000–EUR150,000 ($111,500–$167,000)

With a seemingly simple design, this classic ring excels in its measurement—at greater than 25 carats, it’s actually a press release piece. Engagement ring, anybody?

Artwork deco bracelet in 18k white gold with 20–25 cts. t.w. diamonds, estimate EUR15,000-EUR25,000 ($17,000–$28,000)

Mimicking the architectural parts of the interval, this 1930 artwork deco bracelet connects geometric shapes with delicate, spherical hyperlinks. Plus, it dazzles in circular- and baguette-cut diamonds.

Chantecler rings in 18k gold with 2.33 cts. t.w. emerald-cut diamond and circular-cut black diamonds (left) and a couple of.34 cts. t.w. emerald-cut diamond and circular-cut diamonds (proper), estimate EUR6,000–EUR8,000 every ($6,700–$8,900)

That includes a mixture of emerald- and circular-cut diamonds, Capri designer Chantecler’s diamond signet rings are extra modern designs from the 2000s. Each can be found in a U.S. ring measurement 6, and so they come within the authentic field.

Marina B choker in 18k gold with 18 cts. t.w. sapphire cabochons and a 15 ct. ruby cabochon (estimate EUR10,000-EUR15,000 ($11,000–$17,000)

Made in 1980, Marina B’s piece is on-trend but once more as chokers now as common as ever. This specific one incorporates cabochon-cut sapphires and a middle ruby cabochon, and its inside is sort of as fascinating to take a look at its exterior.

Musy vintage ring (1890) in 18k gold with an roughly 1 ct. outdated French–reduce diamond and old-cut diamonds and rubies, estimate EUR2,500-EUR3,500 ($2,800–$3,500)

This vintage diamond ring spotlights a layered, distinction design with the addition of candy parts such because the facet bow decorations. It’s out there in a U.S. ring measurement 8.

Patek Philippe ref. 460 watch in pink gold with 33 mm case, estimate EUR30,000-EUR50,000 ($33,000–$56,000)

A bit that takes you again in time (to 1929, when it was created), Patek Philippe’s pink gold watch with a silvered dial is a traditional model. The strap, nonetheless, is created from endangered species and shall be eliminated and changed upon its sale.

Rolex GMT Grasp II ref. 16710 watch in stainless-steel, estimate EUR7,000-EUR10,000 ($7,800–$11,000)

Affectionately referred to as the Rolex Coke resulting from its purple and black bezel, this GMT Grasp II (which was discontinued in 2007) will definitely have the eye of watch collectors world wide. Produced in 1997, it options a chrome steel 40 mm case, black dial, and computerized motion.

(Images courtesy of Christie’s Photos LTD. 2022)

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