Antique & Jewelry

Yesterday the week-long online charity auction organized by U.K.-based PR consultancy Rosie Lillis Communications kicked off at Roseberys London Fine Art Auctioneers. As we recently reported, Jewelers for Afghanistan gathers the work of 25 British jewelers including marquee names like Annoushka, Shaun Leane, and Solange Azagury-Partridge (the last two were the judges on BBC reality show All That Glitters, recently covered here). Sales from the auction will be donated to the charity Women for Afghan Women, which is helping to evacuate and provide urgent resources, shelter and care to vulnerable women, children, and families during the ongoing crisis.

Rosie Lillis said putting together the auction was all but effortless—everyone she reached out to was eager to participate. “I think we had 25 brands confirmed within about 72 hours,” she tells JCK.

What motivated her to put together the charity effort? “As a mother of a little girl and founder of a business that supports female entrepreneurs, I want to do whatever I can to help,” she says. “The situation in Afghanistan is a humanitarian crisis for all Afghans but particularly for women, whose rights to education, self-expression, and freedom are in jeopardy.”

Theo Fennell, one of the participating designers and Lillis’ client, added his perspective: “Whatever else it is, the situation in Afghanistan is a disaster for many women there, and we wanted to help. Our key pendant, as a symbol of unlocking the doors to knowledge, to the future, and to a new life, seemed appropriate.”

Each designer’s jewelry contribution has a retail price from between lb270 ($365) and lb1,750 ($2,369). Bidding ends Monday, Oct. 4.

As for the jewels themselves, the pieces below have captured our attention.

Mini evil eye key pendant in 18k gold with diamonds, black diamond, and blue topaz on belcher chain; Theo Fennell

Signature initial charm in 18k gold and diamonds on belcher chain; Annoushka

Tusk bangle in silver with diamond; Shaun Leane

Love ring in 18k gold; Solange Azagury-Partridge

Antique openwork filigree ear-pendants set with a pearl and rose-cut diamond; Humphrey Butler

Bahara necklace in 18k gold vermeil with agate; Pippa Small

Necklace in 14k gold with peridots, citrine, and diamond; Ruth Tomlinson

Top: Hand-engraved signet rings in 9 ct. gold each; Rebus

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Storytelling in art and literature is expected, but a good story is equally important in a piece of jewelry—something illustrated by the Crawford Collection, which Bonhams Los Angeles is presenting for the first time in a special auction.

Wearable Art: Jewels From the Crawford Collection goes up for sale Oct. 12 and features more than 300 pieces of jewelry from fine artists such as Pablo Picasso and Max Ernst, American modernists including Art Smith and Betty Cooke, and internationally recognized jewelers like Georg Jensen, Charles Loloma, and William Spratling.

This collection is notable for not only its breadth—it highlights 20th-century jewelry from 30 master makers—but also its depth, says Emily Waterfall, head of jewelry for Bonhams Los Angeles. These are the kinds of works that are “forever chic,” Waterfall says. “That’s just really good design. It’s not a trend. It’s wearable sculpture.”

Byron and Jill Crawford were insatiable collectors, Waterfall says, selecting pieces from an artist’s first forays into jewelry, their mid-career work, and their peaks of perfection. The result is an auction that gives not only a cross section of the best work of each artist but also a museum-quality story of what makes those works timeless and collectable, she says.

Charles Loloma gold and multistone cuff, est. $40,000–$60,000

“There’s nothing like this collection. I haven’t come across anything like this in my career,” Waterfall says. “The way they collected was passionate: They didn’t just buy one of each artist—they would buy 20.… Jill and Byron were profound in the way they purchased the gamut, from the beginning, middle, and end. They basically curated their own collection, which I find remarkable.”

Jill Crawford in particular traveled the world, scouring flea markets, scrutinizing works in galleries, and meeting with individual artists to personally select each piece, Waterfall says. This was the era before online bidding or Google searches. Rather, the Crawfords researched, examined, and investigated every item in their collection for its design, details, and legacy.

Individually, the auction contains one of the largest private collections of Charles Loloma, Art Smith, Betty Cooke, William Spratling, and Margaret De Patta to be presented at auction, Waterfall says.

“It has been my great passion and pleasure to own and wear the jewelry in my collection,” Jill Crawford said in a statement. “I have spent a lifetime searching for the greatest examples by artists I admire. When I am wearing a great piece of jewelry, I feel connected to the artist, and I become part of the story a piece is telling. Jewelry is meant to be worn, and in the hands of a passionate collector it becomes transcendent.”

Pablo Picasso gold “Grand Faune” pendant, est. $60,000–$100,000

Many of the pieces up for auction are museum-worthy, Waterfall says. Collections such as the Crawfords’ tell a tale of the culture and history of the periods during which the jewelry was made, showing that jewelry truly is art.

“You have pieces that are fantastic representations of what was happening culturally at the time,” Waterfall says. “Art Smith was working in Greenwich Village in the 1940s. He opened his own studio, selling jewelry that was affordable, filling that gap between costume and fine jewelry.… The artists themselves wanted pieces that were approachable—they wanted to rattle the cages and offer jewelry to anyone.”

The Crawford Collection has more than 20 pieces by Smith, an Afro-Cuban immigrant who championed both African American and gay rights and created jewelry for everyone. Often made in base metals, such as brass or copper, his transformative designs were based on modern dance and jazz and were featured in Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar.

William Spratling silver “Helena Rubenstein” necklace, est. $8,000–$12,000

Other collection standouts include works by Max Ernst and Pablo Picasso; the latter’s iconic “Grand Faune” pendant matches lithographs made by the artist. While recognized most frequently for his paintings, Waterfall says, Picasso explored jewelry throughout his life, alongside ceramics and sculpture.

William Spratling, whose works are also featured, is considered the father of Taxco jewelry, and was influential in establishing Taxco as a center for bold, high-quality silver designs. The starburst necklace he called the “Collar Rubenstein” after Helena Rubenstein, the cosmetics mogul, is one of the highlights of the auction.

Native American jewelry is strongly represented by Charles Loloma, Jesse Monongya, and others. In this collection, Loloma presents pieces that reflect the colors of landscapes, Waterfall says.

Other artists in the Bonhams auction include Elsa Peretti for Tiffany, Bruni Martinazzi, Pol Bury, Ettore Sottsass, Tod Pardon, Arnaldo and Giò Pomodoro, and Edvil Ramosa for Gem Montebello.

Top: The Crawford Collection auction features many Art Smith pieces, including “Modernist Cuff” (est. $8,000–12,000) and “Lava Cuff” (est. $8,000–12,000). (All photos courtesy of Bonhams) 

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Just look at that image above. If you’re as intrigued by the glittering hodgepodge of gold chains, bracelets, bits, and bobs as I am, allow me to explain what it is: a snapshot of the junk pile. At least that’s what Elisa Casas, aka @chelseagirl.nyc, calls it on her lively Instagram feed, and said junk pile is where she sources some of her best vintage fine jewelry.

I had to find out more—digging through pounds upon pounds of random gold jewelry castoffs truly sounds like my idea of heaven. What follows is a recap of what I learned about Casas, her business, and her process.

First, her name may be familiar to any New Yorkers reading this, as Casas has a long history in the resale fashion space as the proprietor of three SoHo boutiques. The first was Chelsea Girl, which opened on Thompson Street in November 1993. “I was six months pregnant when I opened my little shop in SoHo, and, quite frankly, I didn’t know what I was doing,” she says. “But I was passionate about vintage clothing and jewelry, and that passion translated into a successful business.” Laurel Canyon (a onetime favorite shopping haunt of mine), Clutch!, and City Girl Café followed during a 17-year period…until Soho changed. “My arty clientele moved out and tourists moved in, my stores lost their leases and closed one by one, so I began selling exclusively through my website,” says Casas.

Cut to 2016, when Casas’ daughter Ruby set up an Instagram account for her. The format suited Casas well, as she’s a former photojournalist. Today, she’s selling exclusively through the platform, focusing mainly on antique gold-and-diamond jewelry, with about 15 to 20% of her inventory plucked from the junk pile.

“It’s such a fun way of shopping, and my customers are literally fascinated by it, so sharing my stories definitely keeps my ‘junk pile gang’ engaged and invested,” says Casas. “My customers tell me that they feel great about rescuing heirloom pieces literally days before they get melted down and lost forever. In their own small way, they’re preserving little bits of history.”

Elisa Casas and her daughter Ruby, hunting the junk pile for treasure

As for this newly initiated member of the junk pile gang, I needed specifics. Like, what is the junk pile by definition—and more to the point, where does one find one?

“What I affectionately call the ‘junk pile’ is more often called a ‘scrap pile,’” says Casas. “There are many businesses on 47th Street (and I assume in other cities) that buy gold, and it’s all thrown into big, dirty, tangled piles. The scrappers don’t care about the quality of the pieces, all they care about is the price of gold. When gold is down, they wait, and when gold goes up, they send it all to the melter and make their profit. In between, dealers like me can rifle through the piles for treasures. Being a treasure hunter all my life and loving the thrill of the hunt, I absolutely adore looking for that needle in a haystack! The pieces I choose are sold by weight, which is way under retail value, allowing me to offer special items to my customers at bargain prices.”

Not surprisingly, this dingy dragon’s lair of treasures is strictly the domain of the jewelry trade. “The junk pile guys are very strict about getting your company information, and they only take company checks as payment,” says Casas.

I also wanted to know: How on earth does one cut through the clutter to find pieces worth turning over? I distinctly recall experiencing an intense kind of overstimulation and fatigue digging through the clearance racks at the late, great Century 21 in downtown Manhattan. I can’t imagine what a pile of gold jewelry would do to my senses…

“I always buy my merchandise on instinct. If I want it, I assume my customers do also, so in that regard, shopping in the junk pile is really no different than shopping anywhere else. Of course, as a seller, I keep on top of the trends and I know what my customers like. So for example, I always purchase San Marco bracelets, which I find often, because of their popularity. And chains are suddenly hot, so I always look for good ones.”

The secret, she says, is to go through the pile methodically, piece by piece. “It’s so easy to overlook something special if you go too quickly. And you have to be really careful to screen for condition: Hollow items are often dented, rings are out-of-round, and deep file marks (from testing) are common. Sometimes an item just needs an easy repair (like a chain missing its clasp), and I’ll take it to my jeweler. Other times, I have to leave it behind.”

The junk pile is just one arrow in Casas’ quiver—she sources her goods from all over the world. “I have a dealer in Paris who buys high-end antique rings for me from all the auction houses. I buy online. I go to flea markets and auctions. I will look anywhere and everywhere for a fine piece of antique jewelry.”

But man, does she unearth hot little numbers among the rubble. Below, some of her most memorable finds.

“Once in a while, if the stones are small, the junk pile guys don’t bother to remove them, which is the best!” Casas says. “I rarely buy earrings because my daughter, who has her own company, Girl of the Earth, also digs in the junk pile and sells them on her website. But when I found one of these in the junk pile,” say says of the earrings below, “I prayed to find the other, and I did!”

Retro diamond and ruby earrings

“Jewelry regret! I didn’t actually buy these: They were so expensive and I didn’t know what I would do with them,” Casas says of the chess pieces below. “But I took a photo, and when I posted it on Instagram, everyone went crazy. When I went back to get them the next day, they were gone.”

18k gold chess pieces

“Even though I knew it wasn’t superold, I appreciated the quality workmanship, so I bought it,” Casas says of the larger ring below, on the right. “When I showed it to my friend Janet, she gasped: It was a designer from the ’70s, whose pieces rarely come to market. Janet was a collector of hers, so I was thrilled to gift it to her!”

Helen Woodhull rings (the junk pile find is on the right)

“This solid gold fob is a work of art. Fobs are not really my thing, but when you find something special like this, you instinctively know to buy it. It sold in one hot minute.”

Griffin fob

“Snake chain bracelets are a hot trend right now, and believe it or not, the old ones end up in the junk pile pretty frequently. Last week I found the heaviest one I ever saw, but it had some kinks, so I took it to my jeweler, and I pray that he can fix it. The great thing about the junk pile is, if you don’t sell it to a customer, you can just sell it back to them! So, often I take chances on pieces that I normally wouldn’t buy.”

Assorted snake chain bracelets

Top: “What I like most about the junk pile is how democratic it is: There are $10 charms and superheavy pieces that cost thousands of dollars,” says Elisa Casas. “And I have always liked the idea of appealing to a large demographic, offering fun, affordable pieces along with expensive estate items.” (All photos courtesy of @chelseagirl.nyc)

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The renowned New Orleans–based antiques dealer M.S. Rau somewhat regularly places advertisements in The Wall Street Journal. And, to its sheer delight, one ad recently caught the attention of someone in possession of a one-of-a-kind jewel by the famous artist Alexander Calder (1898–1976).

Best known for his sculptural mobiles, Calder was also a maker of jewelry, favoring spirals, concentric circles, and amorphous discs in hammered metal. With this in mind, the jewel in question—a custom ruby engagement ring from the 1960s (pictured at top)—encapsulates Calder’s aesthetic but also stands out in the best possible way as a bit of an outlier.

“The great body of Calder’s jewelry output was entirely metal work, with only a scant few pieces having set stones of any kind,” says Coles Loomis, sales associate at M.S. Rau, “and most pieces with a gold appearance were crafted of gold wire as opposed to hammered gold, such as the hammered gold spiral ring the artist designed for his own wife. Since this ring we have acquired was designed as an engagement ring, the artist obviously pulled out all the stops. This meant sourcing the finest material—18k gold—as opposed to inexpensive and malleable materials like copper scraps and silver wire as he did for many of his other jewelry pieces.”

The story behind the ring is that Calder offered to design it for Albert Fenner Milton, to commemorate the occasion of his engagement to Catherine Higgs in 1964. Milton was the son of Albert Fink Milton, who was Calder’s close friend and neighbor in Litchfield County, Conn. M.S. Rau acquired the ring through a member of the Higgs family.

The Milton-Higgs engagement ring designed by Alexander Calder uses 12 Burmese cabochon rubies from a Milton family heirloom.  

“The piece is special in many regards. First, Calder repurposed roughly 15 carats total weight of cabochon Burmese rubies from a Milton family heirloom to incorporate into the one-of-a-kind piece,” says Loomis. “Secondly, the great majority of his jewelry designs were bracelets, necklaces, and brooches. Rings accounted for only a small percentage. The gold still bears a small mark where his pliers tweaked the spiral into the right configuration!”

Further contributing to the ring’s stature and appeal is the fact that appreciation for Calder’s work in the art market is booming.

“Not only did the Whitney recently exhibit some of his collection, but the Museum of Modern Art recently opened a gallery entitled ‘Alexander Calder: Modern From the Start,’ ” explains Loomis. “Although he is thoroughly celebrated for his incredible mobiles, his jewelry is incredibly exciting and rare to come by. Only very special friends and household names such as Peggy Guggenheim and Joan Miró were gifted such extraordinary treasures.”

I’d like to be next in line, please. How about you?

Top: Alexander Calder circa 1964 spiral ring in 18k hammered gold with 15 cts. t.w. cabochon rubies, $138,500; available at M.S. Rau

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Christie’s New York Magnificent Jewels auction wrapped up on April 13, pulling in a total of $35 million. The auction house reported there was global participation, with registered bidders hailing from 40 countries across five continents.

The auction was led by the “Perfect Palette,” a trio of pink, blue, and orange diamond rings that were sold in separate lots but altogether achieved a total of $8.4 million. The stones surpassed estimates, with the pink diamond selling for $3.5 million, the blue ringing in $2,7 million, and the orange going for $2.2 million.

A number of white diamonds also pulled in impressive prices, including a 38.04 ct. pear diamond that sold for $3 million.

Colored gemstones also performed well, according to Christie’s, including a Burmese ruby ring by F.J. Cooper, a prominent Philadelphia jeweler, that sold for $1.7 million, and a Colombian emerald ring by Cartier that went for $225,000.

Bulgari diamond and onyx Serpenti wristwatch (sold for $50,000)

One of the stars of the show was a Bulgari diamond and onyx Serpenti wristwatch, which was sold for $50,000. The piece was donated by Bulgari, with proceeds going to the Elizabeth Taylor AIDS Foundation on the actress’ behalf. The foundation, which Taylor started in 1991, educates on HIV prevention as well as treatment, and advocates for the modernization of criminal laws and penalties affecting people living with HIV.

Christie’s Jewels Online sale continues through April 20 and features a number of fine jewelry and iconic designs by Bulgari, Cartier, David Webb, Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co., JAR, and Van Cleef & Arpels.

The stylish pieces below are still up for grabs.

David Webb diamond and lapis lazuli brooch, est. $5,000–$7,000

Bulgari diamond brooch, est. $5,000–$7,000

Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. black jade bracelet, est. $3,000–$5,000

Top: The Perfect Palette fancy colored diamonds (all photos courtesy of Christie’s)

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Sotheby’s is unveiling both a retail destination and an online marketplace today, to offer customers access to 5,000 luxury items, including jewelry, fine art, watches, designer handbags, furniture, and more.

The Emporium, the new retail store, is located within Sotheby’s flagship office at 1334 York Ave., in New York City, and is an extension of the Buy Now online marketplace.

“Over the past year we’ve seen enormous growth and transformation within the luxury landscape, as evidenced by the success of online auctions and the response to our Buy Now e-commerce platform,” said Josh Pullan, head of Sotheby’s global luxury division, in a statement. “Our newest retail venture in New York, the Emporium, presents a rich assortment of luxury lifestyle goods and fine art that clients can enjoy in person every day and buy instantly.”

Both the retail space and online marketplace will be curated by a revolving roster of tastemakers and influencers, starting with renowned makeup artist Gucci Westman, whose clients have included Jennifer Aniston and Gwyneth Paltrow. Shoppers can browse Westman’s edit until June 10. Her brand, Westman Atelier, is dedicated to promoting clean and sustainable makeup products; as such, Sotheby’s will make a donation to the Right Livelihood Foundation, an organization dedicated to solving global and ecological problems, to thank her for her involvement.

Gucci Westman walking through Sotheby’s Emporium retail space

“I am beyond thrilled to collaborate with Sotheby’s on an edit of luxury goods for the debut of the Emporium,” said Westman in the same statement. “The credibility, the curation, and the craftsmanship that come with the Sotheby’s stamp—knowing something has been vetted by such an exceptional eye—is special. From a pair of art nouveau gooseneck desk lamps by Loetz to a late 20th century Signe Persson-Melin glazed bowl and contemporary gold, platinum, and diamond David Webb necklace, my selections embody my passion for timeless investment pieces with a story to tell. Not to mention the element of discovery—what better way to encounter a new artist or delve into the world of interiors than through Sotheby’s unique lens?”

Other jewelry pieces within the Westman edit include a Rolex Kermit Submariner stainless steel watch, circa 2003, for $30,000, and a Sotheby’s Diamonds yellow and white diamond cigar band ring, for $50,000.

Top: David Webb gold, platinum, and diamond necklace, $95,000, as part of the Gucci Westman edit (all photos courtesy of Sotheby’s)

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JCK recently reported on the reemergence of the jewels of antiquity serving as an inspiration point for independent designers. As editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky notes, “The combination of genuine antiquities—be they Roman coins, Phoenician beads, or antique amulets—with karat gold sends a powerful message about jewelry’s ability to protect, inspire, communicate and, above all, endure.”

For Victoria Strigini, a French, London-based jewelry designer, intaglios—precious or semiprecious gemstones that have been incised with portraits, anima motifs, mythological figures, or scenes—are the thing she’s into at this precise moment, having built her line around on the adornments and artifacts of the ancient world, from Greek and Roman coins to Medusa-head signet rings.

Marriage ring in 18k gold with a Roman jasper intaglio depicting opposed male and female busts from the 2nd–3rd century A.D., $ 16,687. The gemstone would originally have been set in a marriage ring. The featured couple possibly represents Emperor Marcus Aurelius and Empress Faustina.

“Classical gemstones have been around for more than 2,000 years—that alone is magical,” she says. “Imagining all of the hands that they have passed through and then owning one of these treasures essentially inserts you into its history, which again is truly wonderful. It’s like a never-ending story.”

To create the intaglios, gemstone engravers used simple mechanical hand tools with abrasive powders such as emery to carve into the stones. The quality of the carving, as well as the type and size of the gemstones, were key factors in determining their worth (and still are).

And as Strigini explains, intaglios were not simply decorative—in their day, they served a very practical function. For example, they were set into rings for use as seals to authenticate important documents. “The design was carved in a mirror image, to produce an impression the correct way when pressing the ring into wax or clay,” she says.

The designer sources the intaglios she uses from specialty gem dealers and through auction houses. “I like the hunt, it’s the most exciting part,” she says. “I’m kind of addicted. It’s like constantly discovering new artists, just in a different form.… Each stone also invites a different [design] treatment [in jewelry] too, so I enjoy the experimentation phase that comes with a new antiquity acquisition.”

Reverence for the stone’s original creation process and unique provenance is always top of mind when she’s working.

Oval slice pendant in 18k gold with a Roman carnelian intaglio depicting a female bust holding a rose by the stem, dating from the 1st century B.C.–1st century A.D., $7,301 (Photo courtesy of Victoria Strigini)

“I don’t alter intaglios or gemstones in any way; in my opinion, to do anything to them would be disrespectful to the artists who carved them so I treat them with integrity,” says Strigini. “Unfortunately—but luckily rarely—gemstones can always crack or chip when they are set, whether they’re classical carved intaglios or faceted gemstones. This is usually because there is a weakness in the crystal structure. This is always heartbreaking…it doesn’t happen often but you have to just accept that it’s a part of its history. And there are solutions such as filling the chip with melted gold, which can then be engraved to complete the carving.”

Meanwhile, her passion for intaglios has built the groundwork for other designs that embrace a modern antiquities theme, including a new online program that allows customers to choose a pre-sourced Greek and Roman coin from a catalogue and have it set in a silver signet ring. Sounds pretty money to me!

Top: L’Oeuf au Plat ring in 18k gold with a Roman carnelian intaglio depicting a winged cupid riding a dolphin, dating from the 2nd–3rd century A.D., $7,300

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It’s formally the 12 months of the Tiger. In Chinese language custom, the animal symbolizes power, bravery, knowledge. It’s thought of the ruler of different animals and consultant of latest beginnings. Equally, tiger’s eye—a gemstone with shades of brown, bands of gold, and a silky end—is believed to be a stone of safety and channels the brave and highly effective nature of the tiger. In celebration of the Lunar New 12 months, listed below are a few of the most extraordinary tiger’s-eye items available on the market.

Reversible circle photograph locket in 18k gold and tiger’s eye with a 1.25-inch extension, $8,480; Sherman Subject

Handcrafted in Los Angeles, Sherman Subject’s reversible circle locket can both showcase a facet of deep tiger’s eye or the jeweler’s signature shade of 18k gold. It has area for 2 inside photographs—and the jeweler even handles the printing and set up of them.

Seventies clip earrings in 18k gold and tiger’s eye, $15,000; Fred Leighton

Exuding a sure disco sensibility, Fred Leighton’s oversize 18k gold and tiger’s eye clip earrings from the ’70s show that larger is healthier.

X necklace in 18k gold, platinum, carved tiger’s eye, turquoise, and brilliant-cut diamonds (additionally proven at prime), $215,000; David Webb

Contrasting wealthy tiger’s eye with vibrant turquoise, David Webb’s 18k gold, platinum, and diamond-embellished X necklace is the proper instance of what the jeweler is famend for: distinctive artwork deco designs with particulars that solely handcrafted items can obtain.

Classic Seventies Octagon 9342 women’ watch in 18k, yellow gold, and tiger’s eye, $8,799; Piaget

When the grace of positive jewellery and engineering of watchmaking mix, you get one thing like delicate but highly effective like Piaget’s classic Seventies watch. The basket-weave bracelet and 23 mm octagon dial lie flat towards the pores and skin for a completely female impact.

Elsa Peretti cabochon ring in 18k gold and tiger’s eye, $2,900; Tiffany & Co.

A seamless cocktail ring, this rounded tiger’s eye and 18k gold piece was initially designed by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. The model presents customized engraving for a personal touch.

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Bonhams New York Jewels sale is all about Hollywood glamour and artwork deco enchantment. On Might 24, the public sale home will provide items from the private collections of three necessary figures: Helene Irwin Crocker Fagan, Girl Sylvia Ashley, and Bette Midler.

Artwork deco–period heiress Helene Irwin Crocker Fagan

“The New York Jewels sale is stuffed with distinctive items together with some with unbelievable provenance,” says Caroline Morrissey, Bonhams New York director and head of bijou. “We’re delighted to current three fabulous jewellery collections from American girls: first, the unbelievable jewels of Hélène Irwin Crocker Fagan, an heiress from the artwork deco period who owned one of many best Colombian emerald Cartier bracelets I’ve ever seen.”

English mannequin, actress, and socialite Girl Sylvia Ashley (photograph courtesy of (c) IMAGO United Archives Worldwide)

“Second, the gathering of Girl Ashley: a rags-to-riches story of a refrain lady who ended up marrying each Douglas Fairbanks and Clark Gable.”

American actress Bette Midler 

“Third, jewellery from a dwelling legend, the inimitable Bette Midler. Lots of the items on this sale are in the marketplace for the primary time, and it’s an unbelievable alternative to purchase an exquisite jewel with a famed and glamorous story behind it.”

Beneath is a more in-depth take a look at among the sale’s standout jewels—from Fagan’s Cartier bracelet, totaling over 100 cts. of emeralds and estimated to go for anyplace between $750,000 and $1,250,000, to Midler’s ornate Tiffany & Co. diamond and yellow sapphire brooch—whereas contemplating the ladies who wore them.

Fagan’s Cartier bracelet (circa 1926) in platinum with 101 cts. t.w. rectangular and octagonal step-cut emeralds and baguette-cut and Outdated European–reduce diamonds; estimate $750,000–$1,250,000

Fagan’s Cartier aigrette (circa 1914) in platinum and metal with 8.25 ct. outdated European–reduce diamond and pure pearls; estimate $250,000–$450,000

Bette Midler’s Tiffany & Co. brooch in 18k gold and platinum with 8.5 ct. cushion mixed-cut yellow sapphire, 13.1 spherical brilliant-cut diamonds; estimate $40,000–$80,000

Girl Sylvia Ashley’s Marzo Paris brooch (circa 1935) in platinum with 40 ct. rectangular step-cut aquamarine, 3.25 cts. t.w. spherical brilliant-cut diamonds, spherical onyx cabochons, and black enamel; estimate $8,000–$12,000. Girl Ashley’s Cartier bracelet (circa 1935) in platinum with rectangular step-cut and fancy-cut aquamarines and 1.45 cts. t.w. spherical brilliant-cut diamonds; estimate $15,000-$20,000.

(Pictures courtesy of Bonhams)

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The thought of St. Patrick’s Day jewellery doesn’t should translate to all emerald all the pieces (though it definitely can). It may be wearable and pay homage to the vacation with out being kitschy, all on the identical time. Take the shamrock, for instance. It’s definitely affiliated with the Irish, but it surely’s a form that may tackle much less literal, extra summary interpretations with regards to jewellery design. Beneath, we’ve rounded up one of the best items of clover jewellery, simply in time for St. Patrick’s Day. And Irish or not, the clover is well known as a common image of luck, so these items aren’t restricted to anybody or any time.

Earrings in 18k white gold with 2.7 cts. t.w. round-cut diamonds and 12.75 cts. t.w. emeralds, $13,999; 1stDibs

Though these clovers have three leaves, they’re something however frequent. That includes 140 round-cut diamonds and 6 oval-shape emeralds, the pair of earrings have 15.45 cts. t.w. of stones that additionally mimic the form of a fragile bow that drips from the ear. Plus, the backings are clip-on, making them appropriate for anybody to put on.

Vintage clover ring in 14k yellow gold with 0.35 ct. t.w. previous mine–minimize diamonds, 0.05 ct. cushion-cut ruby, 0.05 ct. cushion-cut emerald, and 0.05 ct. cushion-cut sapphire, $1,750; Lang Antiques

In true Victorian style, this vintage ring (circa 1900) is a captivating tackle a basic shamrock form. Every petal is adorned with a petite gem bordered by diamonds.

Perlée clovers bracelet in yellow gold with spherical diamonds, $26,600; Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels has change into wildly acknowledged for its four-leaf clover, a part of its 1968 Alhambra assortment. And this specific bracelet is engulfed within the model’s image, which suggests it’s sure to deliver its wearer some luck.

Cartier clover tiara with 41 cts. t.w. European-cut diamonds; FD Gallery

Whereas tiaras are sometimes related to British royals, Cartier’s model pays homage to Eire with delicate clover shapes all through. Showcasing extremely intricate openwork tapering, this piece is exemplary of the Edwardian period, throughout which it was created, courting again to 1910.

Hemmerle pin in 18k yellow gold with 12 cts. t.w. emeralds and French-cut rubies (additionally pictured above), $35,000; 1stDibs

As with all the pieces within the 80s, this Hemmerle brooch is daring. Its vibrant emeralds and rubies don’t solely create an fascinating visible distinction, but additionally kind coronary heart shapes that join within the heart.

High: Picture courtesy of 1stDibs

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