Antique & Jewelry

Navigating the vintage jewellery world is usually a daunting expertise. However author and editor Beth Bernstein, together with her 20-plus years of trade expertise, is right here to let you know that if there’s a will, there’s a method in her new e book, The Fashionable Information to Vintage Jewelry (ACC Artwork Books). Releasing Might 12, the 192-page e book is a journey by time, historical past, and tradition as seen by the lens of vintage jewels. It covers the 18th century by the early-Twentieth century and makes the market digestible for the fashionable reader. The information combines conversational storytelling with authoritative suggestions, performing additionally as a journey useful resource for the place to go and who to fulfill.

“I created a listing of the individuals I assumed have been the top-notch impartial sellers and high-end shops that I had the pleasure of assembly or doing enterprise with or interviewing for articles and those who weren’t solely educated however possess integrity, jewels with authenticity, and have been fantastic about educating their clients,” Bernstein stated in an announcement. “All of them deliver completely different bits of data on how they view sure durations and items. My objective for the e book was to be extra interactive for many who learn it. In the event that they want the know-how to construct a jewellery assortment, they may need completely different opinions and to fulfill these sellers or cease into these beautiful retailers. It’s an introduction to the world of vintage jewellery and with out the voices and experience of the shops and sellers, a part of the story I needed to inform would have been lacking.”

Past insider insights and commerce secrets and techniques, the great tome contains suggestions for every little thing together with (however not restricted to!) tips on how to outline your private fashion, the hidden that means between various kinds of gems, the ten important items each assortment wants, tips on how to put on vintage jewellery, tips on how to care in your assortment, and many extra. 

And hey, if not for the information, The Fashionable Information to Vintage Jewelry is a feast for the eyes.

High: The duvet of The Fashionable Information to Vintage Jewelry (ACC Books) by Beth Bernstein (picture courtesy of the creator)

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There’s a brand new Tiffany & Co. pop-up in Paris—however when you’re hoping to search out it by trying to find the precise shade of Tiffany Blue we’ve come to know and love, you may simply miss it. The charming, 650-square-foot house at 34 Avenue Montaigne—throughout from Dior’s new flagship (the place Dior Joaillerie used to dwell, previous to merging with the flagship)—dons a deeper jewel-toned blue, maybe evoking the spirit of the jewels inside. 

What’s additionally sudden about this pop-up, a minimum of in comparison with most others, is that it’s on for a complete yr, via Might 2023. Much more, it should showcase rotating themes—starting with a “Paris in love” idea—so no two visits, in idea, might be alike. 

The outside of Tiffany & Co.’s pop-up at 34 Avenue Montaigne in Paris (additionally proven at prime)

The pop-up “represents an progressive strategy to Parisian procuring and a forward-thinking imaginative and prescient of experiential retail,” mentioned Anthony Ledru, the jeweler’s chief govt officer,” in a press release.

It appears to look ahead, however the model can also be wanting again by incorporating components that nod to its wealthy historical past. Amongst such components are, naturally, jewels. However not simply any jewels: historic ones together with these designed by George Paulding Farnham (the home’s chief jewellery designer from 1885 via 1908) and mid-century items designed by Jean Schlumberger, counting a Nineteen Sixties brooch. Collectively, they assist craft your complete story of Tiffany’s previous and model identification—and, maybe, the place the model (underneath LVMH positioning) is headed.

And naturally, it wouldn’t actually be a Tiffany boutique with out a devoted bridal space. The pop-up options an intimate, spherical room with carats upon carats of engagement kinds. 

Whereas this store is up and operating, subsequent on the agenda for the model is an artwork exhibition in London and the reopening of New York Metropolis’s Fifth Avenue flagship.

Photograph courtesy of Tiffany & Co.

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Traditionally, ladies have been by quite a bit (to place it mildly). There’s a cause, in any case, we dedicate a complete month to honoring them—not just for their sacrifices but additionally for his or her contributions. We thought, what higher piece of knickknack to have fun ladies than a medallion? In honor of Girls’s Historical past Month, we’ve sourced a number of the most spectacular, highly effective, and vital medallions—similar to the ladies who impressed, and proceed to, encourage them.

Child medallion in 18k yellow gold with 0.03 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,895; Foundrae

Foundrae’s miniature medallion is all in regards to the stability between female and masculine energies. It additionally portrays the relationships between yin and yang, and photo voltaic and lunar, suggesting {that a} softer, female edge doesn’t equate weak spot. So whereas the saying goes, “Behind each nice man is a superb girl,” this piece makes the case for “beside.”

Wared pendant in 18k yellow gold with mother-of-pearl and 0.05 ct. t.w. white baguette diamonds, $800; L’Atelier Nawbar

As a flower that sprouts by murky waters with clear petals, the lotus symbolizes discovering energy and sweetness by ache. Right here, the fragile, handmade pendant additionally incorporates mother-of-pearl, which is acknowledged as an emblem of soothing, maternal safety. The mix of those two parts celebrates the unbelievable capacity of girls to outlive something whereas concurrently caring for others.

Vintage pendant (additionally proven at prime) in gold with enamel, diamonds, and pearls, $160,000; 1stDibs

Depicting the Virgin Mary because the Queen of Heaven, this vintage pendant represents divine energy, maternal love, and whole reverence. Created through the sixteenth century (circa 1550–1560), it’s a delicate reminder of the female drive that stands the check of time.

Love Cameo pendant or brooch in 20k yellow gold with 8.33 cts. t.w. blue sapphire cabachons and a couple of.72 cts. t.w. rose-cut champagne diamonds, Reinstein Ross

A part of a group that honors the 12 Greek goddesses, this brooch–turned–pendant explores the energy and significance of Psyche, the goddess of soul, and her marriage to Eros (often known as Cupid), the god of want and affection. It portrays a narrative of belief as a fundament of affection, because of Psyche’s unwavering dedication—particularly by nice trials and tribulations.

Le Stelle Tarot Card pendant in 18k yellow gold with 2.3 cts. t.w. sapphires, 0.05 ct. t.w. tsavorites, and 0.49 ct. t.w. diamonds, and 14.16 cts. t.w. black onyx, $17,500; Sorellina

Illustrating the scene of a girl communing with Earth, water, and air, Sorellina’s tarot card pendant suggests {that a} girl is the connection to the weather within the universe. Much more, as she embraces an abundance of earthly riches, it signifies the energy of a girl’s instinct and her capacity to search out gentle amid darkness.

High: Photograph courtesy of 1st Dibs

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Maejean Classic is a TikTok and Instagram favourite amongst millennials and Gen Z, and it’s not as a result of the female-owned jewellery enterprise chooses to function flashy movies, scandalous reels, or outrageous content material.

As a substitute, a few of Maejean’s hottest social media posts are about…historical past. Particularly, jewellery historical past. TikTok customers particularly appear to like studying new stuff about how you can put on jewellery from the Victorian, Edwardian, artwork deco, and mid-century eras—together with how you can model lorgnette chains and cameo brooches and the attraction of Forties two-tone gold rings.

Did we point out the TikTok movies are set to every part from Glenn Miller’s “Within the Temper” to Louis Prima’s “Pennies From Heaven” to the Downton Abbey soundtrack? Not precisely what the era raised on Ariana Grande may assume they need, nevertheless it matches the jewellery and the subject material in a manner that anybody may respect.

A crushed orange velvet background makes these vintage lorgnette chains from the Edwardian period stand out in Maejean Classic posts on Instagram and TikTok.

Maejean’s social media crew is a powerhouse duo that got here on board about 18 months in the past. Earlier to this place, neither Jess Velke or Heidi Wurtz labored in jewellery. Now, each say they’ve grow to be fascinated by jewellery and are taking courses by way of the GIA to up their very own data. However they know social media, bounce on tendencies, and maintain Maejean going viral.

One current TikTok video that confirmed how a classic flip ring with diamonds on one facet and blue topaz on the opposite racked up greater than 3.5 million views and greater than 850,000 likes. It’s that form of traction that reveals how a small firm that restores and sells classic jewellery can use expertise in a manner that grows its enterprise.

“Individuals like to study,” Velke says. “The gorgeous jewellery attracts them in, however the schooling will get them to remain.”

Velke and Wurtz are among the many newest additions to the all-female Maejean crew, a model based in 2010 by sisters Laura Mae and Amanda Jean Hornberger. What began as a weekend interest visiting flea markets, auctions, and property gross sales has became a full-time profession for the women, who use Etsy, their web site, and social media to promote their finds.

Contrasting colours make this Forties coronary heart jewellery irresistible for Instagram viewers, Maejean Classic has discovered.

A part of what makes working at Maejean enjoyable is you by no means know what may come into the studio at any time, Velke says. “If a sick piece is available in, we’re each making a video of it instantly,” Wurtz says. Velke and Wurtz meet weekly to go over new objects, talk about posts, and take images and movies of the most recent items, arising with new methods to showcase classic jewellery.

For instance, Velke lately posted a TikTok video explaining how you can model a Victorian lorgnette chain, sometimes used again within the day by a girl to hold a pocket watch. Wurtz was the mannequin, displaying how the chain could possibly be a necklace, bracelet, or the rest the wearer may think about.

“With lorgnette chains or traditional brooches, you don’t usually see them being represented within the media or on the purple carpet. We like to offer our followers methods to put on them or concepts on how you can model them,” Wurtz says. “Issues like stickpins have been as soon as used to carry clothes collectively. We now have different instruments for that now. However we’re additionally eager about how else individuals can use them within the modern-day.”

As a result of Maejean is on-line solely, having Instagram reels and TikTok movies additionally assist purchasers see how the jewellery strikes and its particulars. Velke and Wurtz say in addition they learn the feedback fastidiously on all of their posts, in search of ways in which purchasers need to see the jewellery or different objects they’re seeking to discover.

The all-woman crew at Maejean Classic contains (from left): Heidi, social media coordinator; Jess, photographer and digital marketer; Macy Preis, affiliate jeweler; Laura Hornberger, co-owner and gemologist; Amanda Hornberger, co-owner and gemologist; Becky Hornberger, administrative specialist; and Dahlia Miranda, stock supervisor.

“There’s lots of collaboration between us and our purchasers. You may seek for it in our store, nevertheless it’s much more attention-grabbing when you may see it,” Velke says. “TikTok particularly likes any video that has a close-up of a very beautiful, distinctive piece.”

They share content material throughout each platforms, usually appearing because the mannequin and muse for the items they’re highlighting. It’s a collaboration that continues to develop, and each Wurtz and Velke say they get pleasure from what they’re doing.

“One thing all of us love about classic jewellery is preserving the previous and preserving historical past,” Velke says. “These are items that gold consumers would in any other case soften down the for the steel. If we discover these items, we will breathe new life into them, and that’s what all of us need.”

Prime: Jess Velke and Heidi Wurtz (proper) joined Maejean Classic about 18 months in the past, and so they’ve grow to be social media stars by creating academic content material round classic and vintage jewellery (all images courtesy of Maejean Classic). 

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At first look, this ring would possibly appear to be an summary, openwork assertion piece. And it’s that—however a lot extra. It’s maybe one of the crucial important items within the 1969 James Bond movie On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Within the movie, Bond, our favourite worldwide playboy, took his one and solely stroll down the aisle—007, performed by George Lazenby, married Contessa Teresa di Vicenzo (higher referred to as Teresa “Tracy” Draco), performed by Diana Rigg—and when he did, he used the ring proven above.

However in true 007 vogue, there’s greater than meets the attention with regards to his wedding ceremony band. Designed by jeweler Charles de Temple, the bicolor, 18k gold band incorporates letters spelling out “All of the Time within the World” round each the outside and inside—a nod to a recurring theme all through the movie in addition to the movie’s music, “We Have All of the Time within the World,” sung by Louis Armstrong. Spoiler alert, “the phrase additionally takes on a poignant tone as the ultimate phrases of the movie. Bond’s bride is killed by assassins shortly after their wedding ceremony, and Bond reads the phrases on the ring aloud as he cradles her in his arms,” in keeping with Sotheby’s.

Now, Sotheby’s is auctioning off the popular culture treasure in its High quality Jewels sale in London Feb. 3–10. One among two created for the movie, the opposite piece offered at Sotheby’s for an astonishing lb52,500 (roughly $70,458) in opposition to a presale estimate of lb6,000–lb8,000 (roughly $8,052–$10,736) in 2019. The remaining piece is predicted to go for lb15,000–lb20,000 (roughly $20,130–$26,841), however because the final of the 2, it’s going to possible promote for way more.

After the movie’s large success, de Temple produced a 50-piece limited-edition assortment additionally studying bearing “All of the Love within the World” however none had been as uncommon as this design.

High: Charles de Temple 18k gold ring, Nineteen Sixties 

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Whereas it’s not the biggest stone (at 8.82 cts.) in Christie’s April 13 Magnificent Jewels sale—there’s additionally a 51.28 ct. spherical brilliant-cut diamond, an internally flawless 21.05 ct. diamond ring, a 13.91 ct. Tiffany & Co. diamond ring, and lots of extra—it’s definitely essentially the most vital. 

The Fuchsia Rose ring (additionally proven at high) in platinum with 8.82 ct. fancy intense purple-pink pear-modified brilliant-cut diamond and 1.22 cts. t.w. pear-modified brilliant-cut diamonds, estimate $4,000,000–$6,000,000

Anticipated to fetch anyplace between $4 million and $6 million, the Fuchsia Rose ring includes a probably internally flawless fancy intense purple-pink diamond centered between two brilliant-cut diamonds. For a sign of the rarity and worth of the stone, the Sakura, an analogous (however a lot bigger at 15.81 cts.) purple-pink diamond went for $29.3 million on the Christie’s Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels sale final Could, turning into the most costly diamond of its sort ever to be auctioned.

Ring in platinum and 18k white gold with 11.63 ct. fancy blue cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut diamond, and shield-shape diamonds, estimate $2,500,000–$3,500,000

It’s not the one showpiece within the sale, nevertheless. There’s additionally an 11.63 ct. fancy blue diamond ring in platinum flanked by diamonds that’s anticipated to go for anyplace between $2.5 million and $3.5 million. One other notable coloured diamond within the public sale is a flowery vivid yellow diamond ring (proven beneath) anticipated to attain a hammer worth between $1 million and $1.5 million.

A hoop in platinum and yellow gold with 15.31 ct. fancy vivid yellow sq. emerald-cut diamond, estimate $1,000,000-$1,500,000

Except for these coloured rarities, the catalog additionally consists of loads of distinctive colorless stones—just like the ring with a 51.28 ct. spherical brilliant-cut diamond (estimate: $1.3 million–$1.8 million) and the ring with a 21.05 ct. internally flawless diamond (estimate: $1.4 million–$2.4 million), and loads of others. Past rings, the public sale additionally consists of vintage jewels from homes akin to Tiffany & Co., in addition to signed items from Bulgari, Cartier, and Van Cleef & Arpels.

The Christie’s New York Magnificent Jewels public sale begins at 10:30 a.m. ET on April 13.

(Photographs courtesy of Christie’s Pictures LTD. 2022)

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